Northern Brittany presents a rugged coastline with many dangers to the casual visiting navigator. But the beauty of the area makes the effort well worth while. I took advantage of a recent visit to Roscoff to take some photos which I hope will inspire you to come here too. The climate for those from southern Europe can be a little "refreshing" but those from the north used to navigating in colder waters will be right at home.
Wandering through the old part of town you are in typical granite and slate covered architecture found all along this coast. The old port is tidal and the boats moored here are deposited on a white sand bottom twice a day. The breakers are high enough to stop the wave of all but the strongest nor-westerly winter storms - plenty of shelter in the summer season. Next to the ramp two fishing boats were selling their catch directly on the jetty. Ray, monk fish, sea bass and spider crab as fresh and lively as you are likely to see anywhere straight from the sea to your kitchen! A new port has been built on the other side of town and is used by the ferry boats bring the English tourists from Plymouth on the other side of the Channel mouth.
Walking along the jetty in the old port you will see two smaller boats that do the short run to Batz, a small island opposite the town. Although the climate may be cold it rarely freezes so Batz is renowned for market gardens. In Roscoff itself there are palm trees which survive and flourish thanks to the heat radiated from the granite buildings around them. The picture above is the end of the jetty and is used to embark for Batz when the tide is out.
Driving (or navigating) along the coast to the east is Morlaix. To the west you will discover many small ports and bays right up to the tip of Brittany. Charts are required even for day time navigation in small outboard craft - rocks plus tides plus currents makes boating here quite challenging. On the other hand a boat ramp is never far and the small ports are well protected. For those European readers ready for the adventure a good place to stay is in a gite (house for rent) or bed and breakfast. www.chez-reine.com is a very good address that I can recommend =;-D - two double rooms in the B&B plus a house capable of hosting a couple of families and covered parking for the car and boat.
I have put a selection of photos in the gallery.
Tony
May 2006
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