Bad Fuel Issues

[NorthWoods]

You know Dan, I'm going to have to take her out again to answer that question. I can't remember exactly how she ran when it got squishy or whether it made her run better or not when I would pump it up while underway. But first, I'm going to check for leaks forward of the fuel pump as you suggested.

As far as the carb goes, I was affraid it was gummed up because I left fuel in it over the winter, so I already disassembled it, but put it back together when I discovered the original hole in my fuel line. I did not do a deep soaking and replace the gaskets, but instead, did a surface cleaning and blew her out with compressed air and then reassembled it to test if the air leak was causing the problem. And it was causing the major problem (not going over 5mph). So, I reused the gaskets I had, but that somehow seems wrong to me. I have done enough automotive tinkering in my teen years (intake manifolds, valve covers, quadrajunk carb swaps, the usual stuff) to remember you always want fresh gaskets. I think, since I had it apart, it should get new gaskets to make sure everything is sealed properly. And since I'm going to give her new gaskets, I might as well give her a good soak and a good cleaning before I put her back together the final time to make sure that a sticky valve or a clogged slow speed jet isn't contributing to my warm up problems as well.

I'll let you know how things progress.

[fishingdan]

Sounds like a good plan. With outboard carbs you generally don't need to replace the gaskets unless they tear. That said, a carb kit is cheap and worth it if it makes you feel better about it. The carb kit usually includes a new needle valve and seat. Definitely replace those if you are in there.

Some mechanics will never soak a carb for a cleaning because carb cleaner is nasty stuff and, from experience, they feel very few carbs ever need it. They will use a little spray cleaner only if they see gummed up fuel. Otherwise, they just blow it out with compressed air.

Let us know how it turns out.

[NorthWoods]

Well now you've got me wondering if I should do a soak or not. I hate the idea of having such chemicals around too, but I thought it would be a good way to go. Perhaps I'll rethink it. I didn't tear any gaskets the first time I took it apart, and I hope I don't the second time, but like you said the kit is fairly cheap, so I thought I should.

I didn't check and blow out the slow speed jet when I was in there, so I definately want to do that, but I did clean the throttle body and butterfly with some automotive carb cleaner.

I know for sure I have a set of gaskets messed up, so before I take her out again, I'm going to get those straightened out. I don't think it's major, but it might be a bigger deal than I thought. They are two thin rubber gaskets which go on either side of a thick black rubber spacer/heat sink/gasket between the intake manifold and the carb. I put them both on the manifold side, doubled up. Apparently, they're supposed to sandwich the black rubber spacer. So there is a potential that air may be seeping in around that connection post mix, but prior to combustion. I don't think any is, but there is a potential.

Dan, my cover is blown! You found me on the other site. I'm loyal to Kiwi above all, you should know. It just seemed like the right place for the right problem. :lol: :lol: :lol:

[AlasKen]

I ran on older model 2 stroke outboard for years following the hints supplied by a grizzled old boat mechanic who sold me the motor. At this time you still premixed gas so you mileage may very.

When he set up the motor he told me that if I followed his method I would not have to pay him to fix my motor and he was correct.

EVERY time I quit for the day and put the motor on the trailer I disconnected the quick connect and let the motor run dry. EVERYTIME! I have done this for 20+ years and never had a carborator problem until my hoses got old and started filling my carbs with rubber.

The secret he gave me was to disconnect and idle the engine until it started to sputter then hit the choke until it died. Turn off the key and go home. I never had a gummy build up in the carbs. I got pretty good at timing it so I would pull the quick connect while the trailer was being backed in and then run onto the trailer and idle. It was important to pull the discinnect before putting it on the trailer as it would run several minutes after removing the hose. My disconnect was on the tank so it drained the hose as well. The motor was a 1970, 70 hp Chrysler and we are still using it today. YMMV but it worked for me.

[NorthWoods]

Thanks Ken, it's good advice if you can remember to do it- not my best attribute :). I did that the first season I had the motor. Ran it dry, fogged it, greased all my fittings, etc., at the end of the season. Second season, foolishly let everything go. Third season, pregnant wife and then brand new baby- had to let everything go. Fourth season, trying to make up for my mistakes.

Watching that Jumbo build with great enthusiasm. Keep up the good work.

[kiwi]

What about four strokes? I learnt from my friend about two strokes but running four strokes dry is a good idea too?

I think that we pay a premium for gas here in Europe but from the experience I have from driving in the States (New England) our gas is better quality with lots of additives already in at the pump. Things may have changed I haven't been your way for a while.

Tony

[fishingdan]

I simply use fuel stabilizer year round. It seems to work well.

Keep in mind that running a 2-stroke out of fuel also starves the engine of lubrication. From my experience, it also doesn't remove 100% of the fuel from the carbs.

[NorthWoods]

Well, yesterday afternoon I stripped my carb again, blew out all jets including the slow speed jet, reassembled everything with all my gaskets in the appropriate places and everything looks good. I'm getting good at this, it only took about an hour start to finish. I've got brand new, Sta-bil conditioned gas in the tank. I inspected my lines again and did noticed a little bit of moisture around the fuel line where it connects to the inlet adapter inside the cowling. I have to figure out a way to get my fat hands in there to get it off and replace it with new hose. If I can move the starter motor out of the way a bit, I can get in there no problem, but I have to study this for awhile in the service manual. Then, I'm going to give her another try.

[NorthWoods]

Ahh... success. Got her running like a top. The bulb gets a little squishy, but I can't see anything leaking anywhere. When I say squishy, a single pump half way through the bulb gets it firmed up again. I think that may be normal. I'll keep an eye on that. As I said, I blew out the carb completely, put my misplaced gaskets in correct order added Sta-bil to the fuel and she is now running like a top from idle through the entire range. She even warmed up nicely on the beach. I did have to adjust idle after a few minutes, but I think I've got that dialed in.

I've been reading a lot of good reviews for Sea Foam, so I think I'll try that next. Anyway, it's good to have my motor back.

[fishingdan]

Glad to hear the good news Dave.

Locally, I have consistnatly found SeaFoam at any Autozone store. While you are there, pick up a can of Deep Creep. This is a sprayable version of SeaFoam.